domingo, 24 de junio de 2012

36 Hours in Osaka, Japan

36 HOURS

36 Hours in Osaka, Japan

Kosuke Okahara for The New York Times

Clockwise from top left, the Instant Ramen Museum, the official shop of the Hanshin Tigers, the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan, Beer Belly. More Photos »

By INGRID K. WILLIAMS

Published: June 7, 2012 13 Comments

OSAKA’S concrete canyons and elevated freeways will never win the city any urban beauty contests. But when the ethos of a place is kuidaore — the concept of eating oneself bankrupt — aesthetics don’t much matter. Fittingly, Japan’s third-largest city has no shortage of fine-dining establishments (the city now boasts 108 total Michelin stars, including five three-star restaurants); but the convivial, freewheeling local food culture can just as easily be tapped into at the inexpensive food stalls that line the recently renovated banks of the Dotonbori canal. And when the belly-busting glut becomes too much, Osaka’s top-notch museums and urban parks provide welcome, necessary respite.

Kosuke Okahara for The New York Times

In Dotonbori, a largely pedestrian area that is the center of Osakan night life.More Photos »

Friday

4 p.m.
1. SPIN IN THE SKY

The area around the Umeda transportation hub is a hyperactive tangle of interconnected train and subway stations amid colossal department stores. To get your bearings, head to the seventh floor of the Hep Five department store (5-15 Kakuda-cho, Kita-ku; 81-6-6313-0501; hepfive.jp) and board the giant red Ferris wheel (admission, 500 yen, or about $6 at 78 yen to the dollar) that spins above the nine-story building. At the apex, 347 feet high, the swaying gondolas offer peaceful views of the congestion below, the new Osaka Station City complex and the city’s famous Umeda Sky Building.

7 p.m.
2. NEON CARNIVAL

In Dotonbori, the largely pedestrian area that is the center of Osakan night life, no amusement park rides are needed to create a carnival-like atmosphere. That’s provided by the neon billboards, the oversize creatures — dragons, crabs, blowfish — hanging from facades, and the continuous string of food stalls and restaurants. After locating the area’s curious landmarks, like the multistory Glico running-man billboard and the bespectacled Kuidaore Taro clown-drummer, reward yourself with takoyaki (fried octopus balls), the local specialty. The mouth-searingly hot spheres served up at Takoyaki Jyuhachiban (1-7-21 Dotonbori, Chuo-ku; 81-6-6211-3118) are topped with tangy sauce, mayonnaise, seaweed powder and bonito flakes (350 yen for six).

10 p.m.
3. ON YOUR FEET

When the heaving frenzy of Dotonbori becomes overwhelming, escape down a side street to Bar Core (1-8-6 Dotonbori, Chuo-ku; 81-6-6211-2228), a spot that guarantees limited company. This polished, standing-only bar has space for only about six (slim) patrons at a time. Order a tumbler of Japanese whisky — the 17-year-old Hibiki (900 yen) is an excellent choice — from the bow-tied bartender, and savor it while the endless crowds stream by outside.

Saturday

10 a.m.
4. UNDERGROUND ART

Jolt awake with a dose of eye-opening art at the National Museum of Art, Osaka (4-2-55 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku; 81-6-6447-4680; www.nmao.go.jp), which was designed by the architect César Pelli. The museum itself is underground, but the glass-and-steel, claw-like structure caging the entrance is unmissable. A recent exhibition, “Eternity of Eternal Eternity,” featured the hypnotizing polka dot patterns of the artist Yayoi Kusama; an El Greco retrospective is scheduled for the fall.

Noon
5. LUNCH, AS YOU LIKE IT

Okonomiyaki, which can be translated as “grill what you like,” is a fried mixture that might include eggs, eel, octopus, bacon, shrimp, pork, green onions, yams, cheese, kimchi. At Mizuno (1-4-15 Dotonbori, Chuo-ku; 81-6-6212-6360; mizuno-osaka.com), diners are treated to a view of the mesmerizing preparation as ingredients like these are dumped into a batter, fried on a griddle, and then liberally slathered with a sweet barbecue-Worcestershire-like sauce and swirls of mayonnaise. The result is delicious, as the line of people outside waiting for a seat at the counter attests. Lunch for two, about 2,500 yen.

1:30 p.m.
6. PACK YOUR KNIVES

Whether you’re looking to outfit a new restaurant or simply upgrade the tools in your home kitchen, the shopping arcade of Doguyasuji is the place to do it. The shops along this narrow alley overflow with kitchenware, from ceramic rice bowls and bamboo steamers to professional-grade takoyaki grills. At Ichimonji (14-8 Nanbasennichimae, Chuo-ku; 81-6-6633-9393; ichimonji.co.jp), admire the knives fashioned like swords, then plunk down some yen for the indispensable kitchen companion: a balanced Santoku knife.

3:30 p.m.
7. PORK IN THE PARK

Upon leaving Doguyasuji, swing by 551 Horai (3-6-3 Namba, Chuo-ku; 81-6-6641-0551;551horai.co.jp), a local franchise famous for its heavenly steamed pork buns. There are locations scattered all over the city, but here you can watch workers nimbly mold the pleated buns, which are then steamed on-site. Carry away a bright red box of edible booty (two buns cost 320 yen) to the Namba Parks garden (2-10-70 Namba-naka, Naniwa-ku; 81-6-6644-7100; nambaparks.com), a rooftop park on eight levels. Enjoy your snack in peace, high above the bustle of Namba, amid flowers, trees and the occasional sculpture.

5:30 p.m.
8. LIFE AQUATIC

Spiral down the ramp that wraps around the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan (1-1-10 Kaigan-dori, Minato-ku; 81-6-6576-5501; kaiyukan.com), home to dolphins, jellyfish, a 13-foot whale shark and other Pacific Ocean creatures. Then take in the sea view from a different perspective — above. The observatory on the 55th floor of the nearby Cosmo Tower (1-14-16 Nanko-kita, Suminoe-ku; 81-6-6615-6055; actio.co.jp/platplanet) offers dazzling 360-degree views of the sea and the glittering lights of the sprawling Osaka-Kobe conurbation.

7:30 p.m.
9. WHERE THE BEEF IS

Kobe is not the only place in Japan pampering its cattle. In fact, an arguably more delectable steak comes from the massaged, beer-sipping, black-haired variety in Matsusaka, about two hours east of Osaka. Decide for yourself at the restaurant Matsusakagyu Yakiniku M on Hozenji Yokocho (1-1-19 Namba, Chuo-ku; 81-6-6221-2917; matsusaka-projects.com), where the menu includes a dozen cuts of beef — and details the attributes of each — that you then sear and season on the inlaid tabletop grill. The narrow restaurant, on a stone-paved alley near the Hozenji temple, has a scarlet and sable color scheme, background jazz and private dining compartments (some with sliding doors) that create a romantic atmosphere. Cool down after dinner with a scoop of yuzu sherbet. Dinner for two, about 9,000 yen.

9:30 p.m.
10. KANPAI QUEENS

Until the mid-1990s, Japanese law prohibited the operation of small-scale breweries, which allowed mega-brewers to corner the market with tasteless, watery beer. But today, a small Japanese craft beer scene is steadily growing. For a pint deserving of a hearty “Kanpai!,” head to Beer Belly (1-1-30 Tosabori, Nishi-ku; 81-6-6441-0717; minoh-beer.jp), a cozy brewpub affiliated with the Osakan microbrewery Minoh. The fruits of the brewery, which is run by three sisters, are on tap at the bar, as are rotating selections from other Japanese microbreweries. Try Minoh’s Imperial Stout, which has strong aromas of coffee and dark chocolate, or its refreshing Weizen, a wheat ale that tastes like buttery bananas.

Sunday

10 a.m.
11. NOODLING AROUND

The chef David Chang and his expanding Momofuku empire may have made ramen hip stateside, but for many in Japan, devotion to the humble noodle can be traced to a different Momofuku. For a history lesson, visit the Momofuku Ando Instant Ramen Museum (8-25 Masumi-cho, Ikeda-shi; 81-072-751-0825; nissin-noodles.com), an entertaining pilgrimage site for noodle lovers that is named after the inventor of instant ramen — yes, that’s a statue of him outside. Mix and match flavors and ingredients to create a personalized cup of instant ramen at the My Cup Noodle Factory, or purchase one of the limited-edition varieties from a vending machine in the tasting room.

1 p.m.
12. BASEBALLS AND BALLOONS

Japan’s most famous baseball park, Hanshin Koshien Stadium (1-82 Koshien-cho, Nishinomiya; 81-798-49-4509; www.hanshin.co.jp/koshien/), is the home of Osaka’s hometown club, the Hanshin Tigers. The raucous games demand firsthand experience (and participation), especially when the crowd goes bonkers during the balloon bonanza released during the seventh-inning stretch. To fit in with the reverently dedicated fans, pick up a jersey beforehand at the official team store on the eighth floor of the Hanshin Department Store (1-13-13 Umeda, Kita-ku; 81-6-6345-1201; hanshin-dept.jp/dept/english/). Don’t despair if the Tigers aren’t playing at home: the new museum at the stadium is also worth a visit (admission 400 yen).

IF YOU GO

Opened in 2009, the Hotel Monterey Grasmere Osaka (1-2-3 Minatomachi, Naniwa-ku; 81-6-6645-7111; www.hotelmonterey.co.jp) is within walking distance of Dotonbori and has direct access to the Namba subway station. The 348 rooms feature simple, comfortable furnishings intended to evoke the atmosphere of a British country manor. Doubles from 9,000 yen ($111).

The city earned major style points when the St. Regis Osaka (3-6-12 Honmachi, Chuo-ku; 81-6-6258-3333; stregisosaka.co.jp) opened in the city’s haute Midosuji shopping district in October 2010. Elegantly mod design extends from the 12th-floor lobby lounge and outdoor Zen garden to the 160 spacious rooms and suites. Doubles from 23,000 yen
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